With the candle market rapidly growing, it’s easy for misinformation to spread like wildfire. It can be difficult to separate fact from fiction. These are the biggest misconceptions in the candlemaking world.

Myth #1: Soy Wax Burns Cleaner Than Paraffin Wax

The idea that soy wax produces a cleaner burn than paraffin wax has been around a long time. Many candle makers claim that their 100% soy wax candles are better for you and the environment than blends or straight paraffin waxes, but this just isn’t true. It’s easy to assume that wax derived from soy and other vegetable waxes are cleaner because they’re “natural.” While paraffin comes from petroleum, you should know that petroleum is also natural. Paraffin wax is derived from crude oil, which naturally occurs in various geological formations around the world. It has a similar molecular structure to vegetable waxes like soy, coconut, and palm. Both waxes are carbon-based and they burn the same way. The push for soy wax over paraffin wax for a cleaner burn is driven by marketing and has no merit, so you can safely use whatever wax type you like without worrying about one being better than the other.

Myth #2: Freezing Your Candles Will Make them Last Longer

This is a common belief, especially among those who aren’t familiar with the candle making process. The idea is that by placing your candle in the freezer, you will help it burn slower, giving it a longer life. However, when you realize that the flame of a candle can reach up to 1,400 degrees Fahrenheit, the minimal temperature difference between your room and the freezer won’t significantly slow down the burn. Furthermore, extreme temperature changes in both the wax and the container can present a huge safety issue. These rapid temperature changes can cause tiny cracks in the wax and the container. When you light the candle, the wax and container material will expand, which can trigger an explosive reaction and cause the container to shatter, sending hot, melted wax everywhere. If you want to get the most out of your candles, make sure to trim the wicks to 1/4th of an inch before each burn and allow them to develop a full burn pool with every use.

Myth #3: Using More Fragrance Will Make Your Candles Stronger

If you notice your candles are lacking in cold and hot throw, your first instinct may be to add more fragrance the next time around. Sometimes less really is more, though. Maxing out or even going above your wax’s fragrance load can present complications. The fragrance may leach out of the wax, forming droplets or pools on the surface of the wax, which can spark and catch fire. At the very least, the excessive fragrance will clog the wick and result in a weak hot throw. Instead of increasing the fragrance load to improve the candle’s throw, choose wax, wicks, and containers that are compatible with each other. This means picking a wick that’s large enough to create a full burn pool without producing excessive carbon build up – not too big, not too small. Even with the proper supplies, you still need to be mindful of the temperatures at which you work. Melt your wax of choice to 185˚ F (85 °C) before removing it from the heat source before allowing it to cool to 175˚ F (80˚ C) and adding fragrance. This allows the molecular structure of the wax to fully expand for the fragrance to fit into. As it cools, the wax molecules will begin to shrink around the fragrance which is how the scent is carried up through the wick when the candle is used. 

If you add fragrance to your wax when it’s too hot, you risk losing some of the delicate notes that are particularly susceptible to high heat. On the other hand, if the fragrance is added when the wax is too cool, it won’t be able to fit into those molecular gaps, leading to an inconsistent distribution of scent throughout the finished candle. Speaking of the finished candle, a proper cure gives the molecules plenty of time to fully settle. To cure a candle, let it sit at room temperature for…

• Paraffin Wax: 3 to 5 Days
• Parasoy Blends: 1 Week
• 100% Soy Wax: 2 Weeks
• Beeswax: 7 to 10 Days
• Coconut Wax: 2 Weeks
• Palm Wax: 7 to 10 Days

Then you can assess cold and hot throw. Nailing the perfect throw in your candles has a lot less to do with fragrance load than you might think–instead, take a close look at your supplies, methods, and cure time.

Myth #4: Essential Oils are the Best Way to Scent A Candle

Essential oils are very volatile and not made to be burned; many of them just can’t stand the high heat of the candle’s flame, resulting in a candle that has no smell. While there are ways to ensure an essential oil has a good scent throw, it takes a lot of research and plenty of experience in candle making. Many can even be dangerous to burn in candles! Essential oils with low flash points, like citrus oils, may present a fire hazard. Other essentials deemed unsafe for use in candles include clove, cinnamon, and pine oils. If you really want to try essential oils in your candles, stick with with those that are generally considered safe like patchouli, cedarwood, and eucalyptus.

Final Thoughts

For those just getting into making scented candles, it is highly recommended to start with fragrance oils from a reputable manufacturer whose oils are formulated for use in candles. They will provide a clean burn with a much stronger throw and are far more affordable. For example, you’ll save a lot of money by using fragrance oils instead of rose essential oil, which can cost over $100 for less than an ounce. Essential oils aren’t entirely off the table. If you’re interested in using them, research which ones hold up best to heat. Peppermint, patchouli, cedarwood, and clove are all on the stronger side, meaning they’ll hold up much better than lighter ones like lemon and lavender. At the end of the day, there’s no harm in using either fragrance oil, essential oils, or even both—just come prepared for some trial and error.